Bermudagrass Lawn Care Schedule for Alabama

Nitrogen Budget

For the season, aim for about 3 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft, and treat 4 lb as the ceiling. Split it across the growing season rather than applying it all at once — bermuda takes up nitrogen steadily through spring green-up and peak summer growth, and pushing past that ceiling invites thatch and disease pressure without adding real benefit.

Mowing Height by Season

Keep bermuda in the 1 to 2 inch band through spring, summer, and fall, targeting about 1½ inches as the sweet spot for density without scalping. Never remove more than one-third of the blade in a single mow — if it has gotten tall, step the height down over two or three cuts rather than scalping.

At spring green-up, a single low reset cut down to about 1 inch clears last year's dormant thatch and speeds things along — but only that once. Bag the clippings from that cut, then return to the normal 1 to 2 inch range for the rest of the season.

Seasonal Schedule

A pre-emergent herbicide goes down as soil rises to about 55°F, in the window from Feb 25 to Mar 25, to head off summer annual weeds before bermuda fills back in. Spring green-up fertilizer follows once soil holds consistently above 65°F and the lawn shows about 50% green-up, generally Apr 2 to Apr 30.

The seeding window for renovation or thickening runs Apr 30 to Jun 25, once soil is reliably in the 65 to 70°F range and nights stay warm — this gives bermuda a full growing season to establish before dormancy. Bermuda is a warm-season grass and should not be seeded in fall.

Summer feeding comes in two passes: one from May 23 to Jul 4 during peak growth, and a second from Jul 15 to Aug 26 as the last heavy nitrogen application before the fall transition. Core aeration fits between Apr 22 and Jun 3, once the lawn is actively growing with soil above 65°F and at least 75% green-up.

Broadleaf weed control, if needed, targets actively growing weeds from Apr 29 to Jun 16, using a post-emergent herbicide labeled for bermuda — avoid applying above roughly 90°F or when the lawn is under drought stress, and confirm the label before spraying. A wetting agent can help water soak into dry patches from May 14 to Jul 13, ahead of and through the hottest stretch.

An early-summer grub preventive window runs May 9 to Jun 20, timed to beetle egg-laying rather than visible damage — most lawns don't need this unless grubs have been a problem before or are known in the area; otherwise scouting is enough. In fall, a high-potassium, low-nitrogen application from Sep 1 to Oct 13 builds cold hardiness before dormancy, and a fall pre-emergent from Aug 28 to Oct 3, as soil cools through about 70°F, stops winter annual weeds like Poa annua, henbit, and chickweed. That fall pre-emergent also blocks any grass seed, including winter ryegrass overseed, so it's one or the other, not both. An annual soil test, taken Jul 27 to Oct 25 while the grass is still active, guides lime and nutrient decisions for the following year.

Watering

Aim for about ¾ inch of water a week, split into two deep soakings of about ½ inch each, watered early in the morning so the lawn dries before night — wet turf overnight invites disease. In sustained heat, that weekly target rises by about a quarter inch when highs sit near the mid 80s, and up to about a half inch when three or more days push near 90, capped so the soil can absorb it without runoff.

Timing Conflicts

Herbicide and seeding timing can work against each other if the order isn't right. If you've recently applied a broadleaf herbicide, wait about 6 weeks (42 days) before seeding. If you've recently applied a crabgrass pre-emergent, wait about 12 weeks (84 days) before seeding — pre-emergents don't distinguish between weed seed and grass seed, so seeding too soon after either product can undercut germination.

Gear this schedule assumes

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Rain gauge

Any $10 gauge works. You need it to hit the 0.75 in/week target above without guessing.

Soil thermometer

The seed and pre-emergent windows above are soil-temperature windows — a $15 probe beats calendar guessing.

Broadcast spreader

Needed for even fertilizer and seed rates. A basic rotary spreader covers most lawns.

Oscillating sprinkler + hose timer

Enough to water deeply and consistently if you have no in-ground system.

Smart irrigation controller

Only if you have an in-ground system — a Rachio-style controller automates the watering schedule.

None of this replaces the label on whatever product ends up in the spreader or sprayer — always confirm rate, timing, and grass-type compatibility there. Used alongside soil temperature and the windows above, it's enough to keep a bermuda lawn on a steady, unhurried track through the season.

More guides

Bermudagrass in other states

Arkansas · California · Georgia · North Carolina · Oklahoma · South Carolina · Tennessee · Texas · Virginia

Other grasses in Alabama

Centipedegrass